How To Make Holy Handgrenades: by Don Croft, edited by Dooney
1. Fold a piece of typing paper twice and then open it into a cone shape. Tape the overlap and underlap with masking tape to help it hold its shape. After you've shaped it into a cone, put the opened cone upside down in a paper cup. [Other molds used are: martini glasses, plastic funnel with the bottom cut off and taped, pyramid candle molds, etc. Use anything that is cone or pyramid shaped. - Dooney]
3. Cut a 26 inch length of 18 gauge copper wire and form it into a clockwise cone spiral (it resembles the tip of a big screw) so that it fits loosely inside the paper cone. You can make it pretty rough or get one of Christy Murphy's nifty conespiral bending forms from www.quebecorgone.com. Orgone simply loves to run along and thru curved, orderly pathways. 26 inches works well for us but there's no specific reason for the length except Carol likes it. We haven't seen any evidence that "lost cubits" or other specific measures are relevant to this work, by the way.
4. Put a big pinch of metal particles into the pointy end of the cone, right on top of the little end of the copper spiral. I like to use BBs (small, copper or zinc-coated ball bearings that American kids shoot from air rifles) for the tips of my HHgs but they're very heavy and expensive if you're making a lot of HHgs and TBs. The spherical form and also the plated zinc and copper over steel provide some pretty dynamic energy qualities but any meta waste from a machine shop is more than sufficient.
5. Shove a fat xtal (my abbreviation for "crystal"), point down, into the metal so that it's standing up, then put a little more metal in to hold it in place. I use very cheap, funky-looking crystals for this which have one distinct end. Any form of quartz works fine, by the way, for any of the items mentioned in this document - amethyst, rose quartz, citrine, etc. Save the nice ones for personal devices, though, if you feel inclined to experiment with the dynamics of gemstones. For an HHg I'll use anything that's at least an inch long and a half inch thick with one distinct point.
6. Now pour enough catalyzed resin in to saturate the metal. If your metal particles are too fine for the resin to pour thru before it hardens, mix the stuff before you put it in the inverted cone - don't learn this the hard way, as I did (and still do ;)! The level of resin and the level of metal after it's saturated needs to be about the same, otherwise you're wasting some resin. It's better to have metal sticking out of the bottom of the finished product than to have less metal than resin. It's the metal that does the work, apparently; the resin is the matrix.
7. We add a bit of garnets, hematite and crushed pyrite to the orgonite, sometimes; it's an optional process for this device but this is a tried and true combination of minerals for enhancing and grounding the effects of the material. If you've got a talent for this process, add whatever you like. If you don't have a feel for it, be aware that the improper combination of elements will reduce the effectiveness of your devices. There are books that can teach you the properties of gemstones and minerals and these properties are greatly enhanced by orgonite. My favorite, because it's based on a combination of intuition and empirical testing, is Michael Gienger's CRYSTAL POWER, CRYSTAL HEALING.
8. Fill to the brim, in stages if necessary, with orgonite and when it's hard, it's finished. You can leave the paper on or peel it off. I leave the paper on and sometimes paint them green and brown with spraypaint if I won't be burying it and you'd be surprised how hard it is to see a camouflaged HHg once itís been put in a bush or other hiding place.
Notice that I'm not putting any additional crystals in the mix as we'd advised in earlier instructions. I simply found that using one bulky xtal in the point makes the other ones extraneous. I think the coil is important in this case. Save the fancy efforts for your personal devices.